Winter Climbing

Last week I headed to Scotland to Cairngorm and then to Glencoe to do some winter climbing.  I thought I was fairly fit, but of course nothing really prepares you for Scottish walk in's with a big pack and winter boots on ....unless you have already spent a couple of weeks doing the same!

This was my first year to try leading some winter routes, and I was pleased to find that my summer skills 'winterised' quite well.  Making do with less than perfect gear, sometimes shifting snow and the weather can make everything feel much more nerve racking.  However, using the techniques that work for me such as breathing into my feet (they seemed to feel quite warm!), staying focused on the task in hand and not letting myself get ahead of....myself (!) worked well.   The latter skill is particularly important - we have a habit of gazing as far ahead as possible, thinking about the end of the route, getting ahead of ourselves, which can really rachet up the anxiety.  Instead, its better to think about the gear you just put in, try to spot the next one, but gaze no further than that, until you get to that next piece of gear.  This way your brain stays on the foot and axe placements you need right now, rather than worrying about the ones you might need on the crux sequence on the next pitch.

I really enjoyed my leads, and am off up again next week for some consolidation hopefully!

Enjoy the pictures :)