Friday and today saw me out climbing with friends in the scorching heat. Amazing how the fine weather creates a kind of pressure to make the most of it! On friday we started off at Craig Y Castell on Tantalus (somewhat overgrown at present) and after an energy sapping fight with ivy, we retreated to Clogwyn y Wenallt to climb Oxine (lovely and cool in the shade). Don't underestimate the effects of the conditions on you psyche - Friday felt quite exhausting and it was apparent we wouldn't be climbing anything too hard.
Today I took a friend of mine up the East Face of Tryfan. High enough to have a breeze, we had a lovely day on Pinnacle Rib Route. My friend sometimes finds the exposure daunting, so I made sure to set belays up not necessarily where the guidebook suggested, but just above where I thought he might struggle so I could keep him in sight and/or earshot. This can be a huge boost in confidence for the less experienced. Familiar faces can also be helpful when you are planning to do a big lead - whilst its good to climb with different people, someone who knows what to say and when can be a huge boost for confidence. So, todays tips - be a considerate leader and work out who you trust and bag them to belay you for big routes.
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4 comments:
Fab! We were camping on the site just below you. Hmm, probably being lazy and just watching...!
Last time I did this route was about 6 years ago and I seconded. The rope got jammed in a crack and I was yelling "take in" but cos of the way the crag is the leader couldnt hear and thought I was tight. Lets just say it wasnt one of my finer moments as I swore and sobbed my way up with a 10m loop of slack in my hand...at the top I realised I had gathered quite a crowd of onlookers when they gave me a massive round of applause... how embarrassing!!
sounds like you had a lovely weekend by the way:)
I like your addition about making belays where you think appropriate, rather than sticking to the guidebook. I have a need to follow the guidebook description- there is so much to think about when leading- protecting yourself, protecting your partner, rope drag, gear conservation- that I view the stances as fixed positions so I don't have to add it to the list. Perhaps too, if I split a pitch I haven't done it in the 'proper way'.
Your point gives me another way to make my climbing creative- an aspect I would like to develop.
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