climbing indoors

I have a vague plan this winter for climbing indoors.  Those of you who follow this blog will know that I dont particularly enjoy being indoors under any circumstances, and indeed as I never really physically train for climbing (preferring to keep it as enjoyable as possible!), I dont usually find it makes much difference to my outdoor climbing in the summer.

However, this year I am trying an experiment.  Rather than taking the winter off climbing and just running, stretching and biking, with a bit of winter stuff thrown in, I am actually going to try climbing indoors regularly, and am aiming for one routes session and one bouldering session a week. Now I know this is hardly training, but for me, its quite a revolution!  Am going to keep up with the things I normally do over winter for variety, and certainly wont be forcing myself to do anything I dont feel like doing (especially being mindful of my bursting finger blood vessels!).  However, I would just like to see what it feels like to come out of winter onto rock feeling relatively fit.  When I look back over the last 5 years of climbing, I think I have managed to improve a little every year, mainly through better technique and better psychological tactics, and probably in spite of my lack of training.  So I wonder what might happen if I did train a little?

For me, its important not to put pressure on myself, so I certainly wont be setting any goals or putting bets on improvement.  The mindfulness approach suggests an open and curious attitude, so that is what I am trying to cultivate towards my little experiment.

Smart Climbing, Painting, Stretching, etc etc!

Its been a good month since I last posted, and a lot has been happening. Firstly, Smart Climbing has outgrown the kitchen table from where I normally operate, so sorting out an office has become a priority.  Pictures to follow soon, but suffice to say I have been making a workstation, putting up shelves and painting, and am almost finished.  Its hard being a perfectionist!

Secondly, as I previously posted, I have taken up a new job in my 9-5 as Lead Consultant Clinical Psychologist, and there has been a lot of new things to get my head around.  Its good to have a new challenge, but also tiring, and it has taught me a lot so far about not having too many expectation of myself, but trying to be open to whatever opportunities arise.

Thirdly, I have been sneaking outside to climb in the short weather windows we have had, going back to my favourite bouldering haunts, and trying to establish a stretching/ meditating routine as well.  Saturday evening saw me teaming up with someone new, and was a great way to get me out of my usual wall routine.  I have also been working with some families, and teaching kids how to climb is always great fun.  

So a lot has been happening, and tonight, in about 10 minutes I will be taking my own advice for once and relaxing!  Given the relentless demands of modern life, its hard sometimes to think about what we truly need for ourselves, rather than what needs doing.  But tonight, I am absolutely sure I need to curl up with a good book and get an early night, so that is exactly what I shall be doing :) 

Paying attention, feeling fitter and feedback

Having felt a bit under the weather last week, I managed to allow myself a chance to rest up over the weekend, and had a picnic in the sun one day.  As I sat looking out at the view and eating my picnic, I noticed how difficult it was to a. maintain my attention fully on one thing and b. how much richer the experience was for either fully focusing on what I was eating (sushi - yum!) or the view (the mountains in all their rich greenery).  Modern life has us multitasking at every turn, but to my mind this is not helpful for a number of reasons; firstly, we never fully have our mind on the job, and secondly, we get out of the habit of paying attention.  You can see how this is not helpful when we are climbing when we need all our mind and body focused down on the rock and the movements we need to make.

The second point I want to make is how important it is to listen to your body and mind.  This weekend was gorgeous weather and a part of me felt the pressure of not 'making the most of it' and going climbing.  The reality was however that I wasnt really well enough to go, I needed a rest and a break and to allow myself to just relax for a change.  Climbers are notorious for pushing themselves forwards regardless of how they are feeling, and I think its important that we try to tune in a little more.  Because I was able to allow myself to rest, this week I feel far fitter and more motivated than I have in a while, and enjoyed some bouldering and route in the Pass with some enthusiastic friends, whereas if I hadnt taken the time off then I might still be feeling under par this week.

Finally, I received a couple of sets of feedback this week from this summer's clients.  Both have managed to continue to put into practice what they learnt, have taken some falls and been able to go up a couple of grades.  But most importantly, they talked about a sense of freedom and enjoyment which had been absent prior to their session with me.  I get as much enjoyment seeing other people improve as I do from climbing myself, so its been a great boost.

Playful climbing

Thought I would add a little post on my trip to Fontainebleau.  It was my first time there, and I was blown away by the numbers of problems and the thoughtful attention to creating circuits at all levels, so that there really was something for everyone.

The rock took a little getting used to, but with kids circuits, beginners circuits and plenty of mid-grade circuits, it was always easy to find something to help you work up to the next level.  The people I climbed with helped me find a sense of fun and play, and following the circuit arrows around the vast areas gave the days an exploratory feel.  Rather than ticking off problems, I found myself trying anything and everything that took my fancy, and once we had located the area we wanted to climb in, it was easy to throw off the guidebook and open our eyes to what the rock provided.

A really great way to explore a different way of using my body and mind, and it left me wanting to go back for more!

Emotional evening - seconding is hard!

This evening, I went with my friend who had the accident back up to the quarry to climb a route next door to the one where he fell back in May.  For me as belayer, being the first time since the accident to belay him, it was a hugely emotional and terrifying experience.  I could feel the tension mounting in my body as I experienced a huge wave of negative thoughts and flashbacks to a few months ago.  I didnt want to transmit this up the rope, so focused on breathing calmly so I could talk calmly to John in case he needed the support too.

Relieved that he topped out without incident, I thought I could relax an breeze on up the climb, one I have done a few times before.  However, I totally underestimated the effect of holding that tension whilst belaying on my ability to second.  I pretty much dragged myself up the route, my body feeling clumsy, tight and awkward, and found myself still feeling the effects of the adrenalin from belaying.

I think its important to raise this as I know many of you will be belaying either nervous partners or people who are climbing at their limit, and this vicarious tension can have a huge effect on your own performance, whether seconding or when it comes to your turn to lead.  As a belayer, you may need to use the anxiety management techniques as much as when leading!

Well done John for a composed lead, and I am glad that the 'first time' since the accident for us to climb together passed without event, making the next time easier :)

Article on this summer's open workshop

Its been really hectic recently, so I am a bit behind on the blog posts, but hoping to catch up this weekend.  For starters, check out the write up on the open Smart Climbing workshop from this summer (when it wasn't raining!) in Outdoor Enthusiast  p36, written by Sarah Stirling.  There are some great pics and the write up gives you a flavour of what was covered over the weekend and what people got out of it.

Keep checking the blog, coming soon are write ups about a client who improved their grade considerably after a private workshop, and my Font trip (done in summer no less, how untraditional!) which taught me the value of playful climbing :)

Big toes and breathing

Have done quite a lot of coaching recently in North Wales and one of the common themes has been around the importance of keeping your mind in your big toe!  Now before you think I have gone completely mad, the most common reason for most people to fall off is their feet slipping off, rather than their hands failing them - and this is usually the exact opposite to what people imagine happens. Many people talk about needing to get stronger, better finger strength and so on, and yet most often its their feet that let them down - literally!

Foot position is crucial and yet because the area in our brain (the sensory cortex) is larger where it is associated with our hands than our feet, and possibly because our hands are more often in their eye-line, its harder to keep our feet in mind.  Consequently, not enough pressure is placed on the big toes which anchor us to the holds, or perhaps the pressure is unevenly placed and then we become out of balance.

A simple yet hard to do exercise to correct this involves breathing into your feet.  Before you step onto the route, wiggle your toes in your shoes and try to develop a sense of them inside your boot.  As you breathe out, imagine the breath travelling down your legs and into your big toes.  This can be done when you are sitting at your desk, anywhere really, but regular practice is a must.  Then transfer this to when you are on the rock, trying to maintain that sense all your body as a whole and in particular your 'lower corners' (if the hands are your upper corners, your feet are the lower corners).  Really focus on what you can feel beneath your toes, are they equally weighted, is your foot horizonal, are you using the big toe as a lever to keep your feet on (particularly if its overhanging). 

Give it a go!

Its great to get feedback

Constructive feedback is always helpful yet often we are defensive, feeling insecure or that the feedback somehow reflects on us as a person or means that we are not as well liked as we hoped.   Often we think we are giving ourselves feedback when in fact what we are doing is criticising ourselves, beating ourselves up about things we "should" do better.  It can be hard to objectively analyse our performance and see the strengths as well as our growing edges.  An over-emphasis on problems can lead to perpetuation of those problems, whereas a focus on strengths and solutions is usually much more helpful.  Our poor brains dont understand "dont do/think about x"; instead what they hear is just "x".  As climbers tend to be very achievement orientated, this tendency is often quite pronounced, and it can take a huge effort to learn to be kind to ourselves.

A few days ago I was delighted to receive some positive feedback so I am going to share it with you now!  A guy emailed me and said;

"Just to let you know that although I haven't been to see you you've already helped me. I read your blog regularly and 2 weekends ago went with my pal to North Wales, we did some easy multi pitch stuff on little tryf and the next day did Cneifon Arete. I overcame some of my fears by not letting the "chatter" as you called it interfere, I'm not there yet but I just want to thank you for being instrumental in helping me. I still want to attend one of your weekend courses when I get some money together as I think they'll help me immensely"

Brilliant!!  

quick update

Have been on my holidays for the last couple of weeks, and as its showery today I find myself inexplicably drawn to the computer!

A few things have occurred to me during my travels in Northern Scotland and now Northumberland. I have had chance for some serious downtime, and given the space to think, I have been able to re-evaluate some of my goals. Its easy to get committed to certain courses of action, training programs or goals, and then follow them blindly even when our desires or needs change, or when they are no longer useful.

One of the key exercises I use with people is to have them imagine what they would like said about them in their obituary/ written on their headstone. Morbid perhaps! But a useful way of thinking about your priorities in life and then aligning your goals with your values. Then its important to think, will this action move me closer to my values and goals. Often when we really examine them, our goals can be quite arbitrary or their importance seems diminished when we place them under the spotlight.

So, my values and goals have become a little adrift over the last 12 months, but these last couple of weeks have allowed me to refocus, and set new goals which are closer to my values. I hope you can take time out to do the same - whether about your life in general, or about your climbing.

working with fellow celts!

Today I had a great day working with Colin and Kevin, a Scot and an Irishman respectively.  They spent a day with Silvia Fitzpatrick (my friend and colleague) yesterday working on movement and tactics,, and today we covered body awareness, mental warmups and anxiety management techniques.  The rain held off for most of the day so we were outside bouldering for much of the day before a quick trip up to the slate quarries to finish off.

Both Kevin and Colin were initially not that into bouldering (but were converts by the end!), but it is a great way of putting into practice the anxiety management techniques.  Essentially its about refocusing yourself back into your body through visual tricks, breathing techniques, and muscle relaxation.  Trying progressively harder and/or higher problems allows people to master the techniques within their comfort zone, and then take small steps out of their comfort zone to practice the techniques again.

Both Colin and Kevin did really well, sending some good problems, and putting into practice everything they had learnt over the two days - well done guys!